The hidden garden
There is a little-known square in Lisbon named after mulberry trees, where history, culture, and hospitality come together in a delightful setting.
Hidden behind the towering arches of the aqueduct and flanked by 18th-century houses, Jardim das Amoreiras is home to the capital’s newest boutique hotel, a unique art foundation, a tiny white chapel, an extraordinary water reservoir that is part of the centuries-old aqueduct and a lively kiosk where locals and visitors gather to soak in the tranquil atmosphere.
This enchanting square, situated between the renowned shopping centre of the same name and Lisbon’s Rato junction, was named after the mulberry trees (‘amoreiras’ in Portuguese) planted by the Marquis de Pombal. The then-Prime Minister of Portugal was responsible for the reconstruction of Lisbon following the devastating 1755 earthquake.
Conceived in 1759, this delightful square formed part of his plan. Here, he planted 331 mulberry trees to stimulate the developing Portuguese silk industry, which was partly based in the factory located around the square.
Today, the square’s mulberry trees have been replaced by a delightful variety of trees, including lime and ginkgo, arranged around a petite fountain, creating a lush and discreet oasis.
The old silk factory is home to the Fundação Árpád Szenes-Vieira da Silva – a captivating art foundation. The water reservoir hosts exhibitions. The garden features a charming kiosk and a children’s playground, and two of its ancient houses have been transformed to accommodate one of Lisbon’s most enchanting boutique hotels: Hotel das Amoreiras.
The hotel
Boasting a prime location in this secluded square, Hotel das Amoreiras – a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World – is a hidden gem.
Alicia Valero and Pedro Oliveira
Its creator, Pedro Oliveira, frequently visited the square as a child and became enchanted by it. “I can’t really explain. Enjoying a morning coffee at the kiosk whilst watching the locals and children in the playground is delightful. Everything about it! I’m certainly biased, but this is arguably one of the most beautiful squares in Lisbon,” remarks Pedro, who has been captivated by hospitality for as long as he can remember.
Owing to his passion for luxury hospitality and interior design, Hotel das Amoreiras radiates cosmopolitan sophistication and countryside chic, from its classic façade to its refined interiors.
Pedro’s refined taste and appreciation for luxury developed early on. As a young man, the former private banker turned hotelier had the opportunity to frequent some of London’s grandest hotels with his family, including the Savoy and the Dorchester, igniting a passion for this world. This led him to leave a successful international banking career after 20 years to return to his hometown and fulfil his dream of opening a boutique hotel.
Without any professional experience in the business, Pedro and his wife, Alicia Valero, a luxury marketing executive, jumped in at the deep end. They purchased two dilapidated buildings in the square and rolled up their sleeves. A diligent man, he chose to pursue a postgraduate diploma in International Hospitality Management at the prestigious Les Roches school in Switzerland, a “great experience” that gave him an entirely new perspective on the world of hospitality.
From the architecture to the décor, Pedro wholeheartedly challenged himself to transform this hotel into a reflection of his influences and inspirations.
He also designed the majority of the furniture and lighting fixtures. He meticulously planned every detail, from the positioning of outlets to the patina of brass ornaments and the hotel’s charming logo: a golden silk moth alluding to the garden’s origins.
As we step inside, we discover a welcoming reception area and hall decorated in warm earth tones. Across the lobby is a vibrant bar, a discreet seating area, and, beyond the French windows, a charming whitewashed courtyard dominated by a stunning olive tree. For the decoration, Pedro drew inspiration from the verdant hues of the Amoreiras garden: dark green and olive green, brown, beige, and nude tones elegantly fused with understated, world-class materials, ranging from wicker and wood to velvet and marble, including bespoke pieces tailormade by Pedro.
The ground floor presents a delightful blend of styles and eras that evoke comfort and transport us to a film set where guests enjoy cocktails at a glamorous bar adorned with luxurious Watts of Westminster fabrics, all whilst an oversized poster of James Bond watches over them. Each nook of Hotel das Amoreiras exudes magnificence and elegance.
Upstairs, the wicker-lined corridors, topped with black and white photographs of historical figures from politics, art, and cinema, benefit from the perfect intensity of subtle lighting, courtesy of brass wall lamps designed by Pedro. The 17 rooms, spread across two floors, along with two grand suites featuring a mansard roof on the third floor, offer idyllic views of the lush garden that lends its name or the charming interior patio.
Another essential aspect of the project is the selection of paintings and artworks. Curated by Pedro, some pieces originate from his personal collection, featuring several paintings and original screenprints by the renowned Swiss artists Maurice Barraud and Alberto Giacometti, as well as the Spanish painter Manolo Valdés. However, perhaps the most significant piece is a painting by his father of Lisbon’s harbour. This artwork, which accompanied Pedro for many years across various countries and homes, now adorns the hotel lobby. “I’ve gathered all these references throughout my life. If you know me, you’ll instantly recognise my style in this hotel. It could even be my home – and that’s precisely the feeling I aim to convey whilst always catering to our guests,” he explains.
Thanks to its prime location, Pedro and Alicia have opened the hotel to the outside world, welcoming not only guests but also passers-by, who can sip a cocktail after work in the courtyard or enjoy a refined breakfast made with local ingredients. “It makes sense to blend what’s happening in the hotel with the activity outside in the square, creating a more intimate mix of experiences,” he exclaims.
Because service excellence is crucial to Pedro, breakfast is tailored for each guest, who can choose from a refined menu that includes scrambled eggs with coriander oil, eggs Benedict, and fresh fruit accompanied by a basket of viennoiseries. Coffee is taken seriously here. Pedro selected a unique roast, ground on the spot to guarantee the most aromatic experience. Nothing is left to chance. Open for all-day snacking, the bar offers a variety of savoury and sweet treats throughout the day and, in the afternoon, a classic tea experience reminiscent of those Pedro enjoyed in London.
The museum
Adjacent to the hotel, the Árpád Szenes-Vieira da Silva Museum, housed in a restored silk factory, pays tribute to contemporary Portuguese painter Maria Helena Vieira da Silva and her husband, the Hungarian painter Árpád Szenes.
Árpád Szenes-Vieira da Silva Museum
Take the opportunity to explore the rooms and corridors of this bright and airy exhibition space, brimming with works by the artists and guest creators.
The current exhibition, entitled 331 Mulberry Trees in Metamorphosis, referencing the garden’s past, will be on display until December 2025.
Before you head out, grab a coffee and a slice of cake at the café, browse the shelves of the quaint shop selling art books, notepads and canvas tote bags, and pick up a poster of previous exhibitions as a souvenir.
The monument
Opposite the Art Foundation lies the imposing Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras Reservoir. Designed by Hungarian architect Carlos Mardel, this structure was completed in 1834.
Reservatório da Mãe D’Água das Amoreiras
Created to receive and distribute water brought by the Águas Livres Aqueduct, this impressive and sturdy building features a square layout.
Inside, the focal points include the Arca d’Água, the Casa do Registro, and the waterfall cascading from the mouth of a dolphin, encircled by a series of round arches supported by solid stone pillars. Today, this expansive venue welcomes visitors and frequently hosts events and exhibitions, such as the current immersive Van Gogh experience.
The chapel
Whether you are religious or not, the charming Nossa Senhora de Monserrate chapel is certainly worth a visit. Constructed in 1768 between the arches of the Águas Livres Aqueduct by the Silk Manufacturers, it was dedicated to Our Lady of Monserrate in honour of the patron saint of French artisans who came to the Royal Factory.
Behind its simple façade, featuring a smooth-framed door, a window, and an oculus, the little temple’s highlights include its painted wooden altars that mimic marble, inspired by Rocaille neoclassicism; its dome adorned with tempera painting, displaying a Rocaille influence, incorporating transformed shells and garlands of wildflowers that symbolise the Virgin Mary, alongside the blue and white tile panels from the old Royal Factory in Rato. The chapel is open for service on weekdays at 6.30pm and on Sundays at 10.30am.
The kiosk
The linchpin and social hub of this charming garden is its kiosk. Frequented by locals and visitors of all ages, it is the ideal spot to sip coffee in the morning whilst reading the newspaper, enjoy a light lunch, or meet friends for a sundowner whilst listening to live music.
Take a seat on the calçada-covered terrace dotted with Portuguese-made Arcalo metal tables and chairs, shaded by large green umbrellas, and order your drinks from the large 19th-century kiosk, which is open from early morning until late in the evening.
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